Barbagia at 360°

Welcome to Aritzo, in the heart of Sardinia! Among the most evocative routes in the Aritzese area there is undoubtedly the one that leads to the ancient Neviere odomes of his nie (houses of snow): deep circular wells delimited by dry stone walls where the snow was deposited, subsequently collected during the summer, when by now transformed into blocks of ice it was transported and sold in the rest of the island and with which the Aritzesi prepared the Carapigna, a delicious forerunner of the ice, lemon and sugar sorbet we know today.

To reach them, we start with the Buggy: at 800 meters above sea level, surrounded by chestnut trees, it anticipates the wonder of the paths to be traveled within fairy-tale scenarios. Dense centuries-old woods of holm oaks and oaks, rocky dwellings of numerous waterfalls and Mediterranean scrub hide sheepfolds inhabited over the centuries by shepherds who spent the long periods of transhumance here. Going up the same ancient mule tracks, traveled in the past by carts pulled by mules or horses of the ice traders, you arrive on a large platform dominated by the fire lookout of Mont’e Tuvara. Located at an altitude of 1380 meters, it dominates the whole valley of the Flowing and when the sky is clear, the horizon stretches as far as the sea that washes along the coast of Oristano. Here, a stop with the buggies is worthwhile to continue on foot with an agile and short trek up to the plateau of the two pure and very fresh water springs ofCongiada Fountain, included in the Site of Community Interest of the Gennargentu Mountains, at an altitude of 1450 metres, a realm of silence, where, in accordance with this characteristic, it is not infrequent to come across some specimens of moufflon, the island’s symbolic animal, perhaps introduced by the neolithic man in Sardinia but also beautiful wild horses while the eagle, queen of the skies of Gennargentu, flies high. Once you arrive you will also have the opportunity to participate in a laboratory for the preparation of sorbet using the ancient tools, a truly unique experience.

On the second day, an exciting trek to the highest point of the island awaits you. The Gennargentu is the highest mountain range on the island and the peak that bears the name of the Savoyard general, with its 1834 meters, is its spectacular and marvelous peak. To lose your gaze in a panorama that takes your breath away, a few hours of walking along a well-signposted and never too demanding path is enough. One of the most popular is certainly the one that leads from S’Arena to Punta La Marmora: about 14 kilometers round trip, for a total of five hours of walking. Stop at the ruins of the Lamarmora Refuge to have a packed lunch. The journey continues up to the top, from where it is possible to admire a 360-degree panorama that goes from north to south, from east to west, from the sea to the profiles of the other mountains of the island, starting with the closest Supramonte. After having experienced the great emotion of having conquered the highest point in Sardinia, and having left a signature in the appropriate diary contained in a metal box, you take the same path of the outward journey until you return exactly to the starting point, in locality of S’Arena. The Punta La Marmora trek is perhaps the most evocative of those possible on the Gennargentu. It is above all for the panorama with few equals, but also for the immediately surrounding environment. In fact, the path develops between some stony ground and particularly low vegetation due to the harsh winter temperatures. The context, especially in the warmer months, is almost lunar. Among other things, close encounters with the numerous animal species that inhabit the massif, such as sheep, cows, horses, moufflons and birds, starting with the golden eagle, are not at all rare.

On the third day, immerse yourself in the craft traditions of this unique area. You will participate in a laboratory that re-proposes all the stages of the wool supply chain from washing to carding and spinning with traditional Sardinian tools to finish with the dyeing made with local dyeing herbs. They were the women who covered the entire supply chain, from washing the greasy wool to drying, carding and spinning. The natural dyeing of wool represents the rediscovery and enhancement of an ancient craft of Sardinia, common to many other cultures. In ancient times, weaving was one of the daily activities of women who had looms in their homes. They wove wedding trousseau, carpets, blankets and household linen. The wool used was obviously that of the Sardinian sheep, a very rustic and resistant yarn. They were involved in the collection of dyeing herbs to prepare the color baths and they dyed the wool until they obtained all the colors necessary for the product they wanted to make. The fabric obtained by weaving Sardinian sheep’s wool (orbace) was particularly bristly and rough and no garment could be made unless it was first beaten (fulled) in the fulling mills. In Tiana (NU) in the Museum of Industrial Archeology you will witness the beating of sheep’s wool in the only still functioning fulling mill in Italy. The two large wooden hammers, set in motion by the wheel that exploits the energy from the river water, beat on the fabric until it softens and/or felts it to make blankets, traditional Sardinian costumes and on “Saccu”, the waterproof coat used by the Sardinian shepherd over the centuries. From the town of Tiana you will move to TONARA (6 km) a town known for the artisanal production of nougat. You will be able to watch the making of the traditional dessert with tasting and you will have the opportunity to buy local products. You can also visit the workshop of the craftsman who makes Sardinian cowbells by hand following an art and ancient techniques that have been handed down for generations. The cowbells for cows, sheep, hunting dogs have different shapes and sizes and each of them has a different sound which makes them unique pieces.

On the fourth day, go to the discovery of another uniqueness, the Mandrolisai. Mandrolisai is an area with a strong winemaking tradition whose climatic and geographical conditions present a climate characterized by little rain and long summers which guarantee perfect ripening of the grapes. The soil is characterized by granite sands and the combination of all these elements make its wines special. These are identified by the denomination “Mandrolisai DOC” reserved for red and rosé wines produced with grapes from local vines. Several wineries in the area offer the opportunity to learn about the winemaking traditions of Mandrolisai by taking a wine tour in their vineyards. The vineyards of Atzara, Meanasardo and Sorgono are among the most important in the area and therefore have obtained an important recognition at national level by becoming part of the list of “historical rural landscapes” of Italy. Each town has its own particularities and you can choose which winery to visit and combine it with a visit to an archaeological site nearby.

In Sorgono it is possible to visit the Cantina Sociale del Mandrolisai and taste its wines. Together with this, a guided visit to the archaeological park of Biru ‘e Concas (the Sardinian Stonhenge) is proposed, a megalithic complex with a concentration of Mediterranean menhirs, dating back to about five thousand years ago. Near the menhir park it is also possible to visit the rural sanctuary of San Mauro, (magnificent example of architectural eclecticism surrounded by “muristenes” accommodation for pilgrims, dating back to 1200 and founded by Benedictine monks.

In Meana Sardo you can visit the vineyard which rises near the Noltza nuraghe, an important archaeological site which holds the secrets of a millenary landscape. In the Fulghesu cellar you can taste the wines of the homonymous cellar, in particular the Cannonau.

In Atzara, another important center of the Mandrolisai, several wineries offer visits to the vineyards and tasting of red and white wines. In the early 1900s Atzara was an important meeting point for artists from Spain (costumbrists) fascinated by aspects of the local traditional culture and important island painters. Interesting works are collected in the art gallery dedicated to the Iberian painter Antonio Ortiz Echague.